Kewl Metal Triple Tree turn stops...

[yardsale]

Just wondering how others have dealt with turn stops on after-market trees?

The turn-stop bolts in the Kewl Metal 12 degree rake kit (for 2009 & newer models) aren't in the right place for a '11 FLHX and the rubber stops that are on the fork tubes don't work because there isn't a flat spot for them to hit. Looks like I can probably fabricate a piece of metal and bolt it on but thought I'd ask in case I'm missing something obvious.

For others getting ready to install the KM kit, be careful to get your clutch and speed sensor cables out of the way. I got lucky.

 

[slothy]

Can u take a pic

The hhi trees use bolt heads for stops.


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[Sonic69]

Are'nt the Kewl ones the ones that double neck the bike?

 

[BMac]

Are'nt the Kewl ones the ones that double neck the bike?

For the Victory prostreet kit they do, but for the 5 and 7 degree it's not...not sure what he does for the HD trees but I would assume it's similar

 

[yardsale]

I must have been pretty tired last night but sometimes just asking the question helps you see the answer.

The rubber bumpers have to be turned and positioned to hit at just the right spot. Its kind of a kludge but it does work. There are two tricks (well... probably not tricks if you're not super hungover from new years eve festivities):

1) On both sides, you have to drop the bumpers down far enough to clear the fork lock flange.

2) On the left side, you have to remove a factory plug terminator that is mounted to the frame just above the wiring harness where the bumper wants to hit.

The fairing frame pinches the rubber ring and holds it in place so that the extended part of the bumper hits the frame reliably.



Where I got confused is with the fork stop bolts that seem to be in the wrong place. Kewl Metal provides a supplemental instruction sheet but I don't see how they are supposed to work now that it's installed. Maybe they work for a RG or RK?



Unfortunately, the lower tree still wants to hit the clutch cable a little bit (I might have the clutch cable routed wrong). Anyway, be warned: With the rubber bumpers initially in the wrong place, the sharp corners on the tree (which is underneath the clutch cable in the pic below) cuts like a knife if something gets caught between the tree and the frame. Hope all this helps the next guy because instructions in this kit are kind of thin.

 

[Classic$98]

Are'nt the Kewl ones the ones that double neck the bike?

Not all, just the 45 degree pro street kit. It is the same one Arlen Ness sells.

 

[Classic$98]

No, this will help me I am sure. I might get mine at the end of this week. Thanks.

 

[yardsale]

No, this will help me I am sure. I might get mine at the end of this week. Thanks.

Make a note about how your clutch cable is routed before you take things apart. I had mine on the wrong side (left) in the pics above. There's a lot more room to keep things up and out of the way on the right side. Lesson learned: Don't work on the bike with a hangover.

 

[Classic$98]

Make a note about how your clutch cable is routed before you take things apart. I had mine on the wrong side (left) in the pics above. There's a lot more room to keep things up and out of the way on the right side. Lesson learned: Don't work on the bike with a hangover.

If the clutch cable is routed wrong, it is my fault already since I had it apart last year! At least you had the motivation to work on it even though you were still drunk! That's determination!

 

[gtcontender]

Had the same issue on a kit just installed on a 2001, I machined out some other stops after talking with Kewl Metal. The ones I machined were 1 inch diameter by 3/4 inch long, then counter bored the hole so a new SS allen cap screw would countersink into the hole then used blue loctite on them. The locking mechanism on the key switch was a touch tight and perhaps the machine stop slugs could be done at .950 would be a touch better.

 

[yardsale]

Had the same issue on a kit just installed on a 2001, I machined out some other stops after talking with Kewl Metal. The ones I machined were 1 inch diameter by 3/4 inch long, then counter bored the hole so a new SS allen cap screw would countersink into the hole then used blue loctite on them. The locking mechanism on the key switch was a touch tight and perhaps the machine stop slugs could be done at .950 would be a touch better.

I had almost forgotten about this. The rubber thingers work better with the HHI neck because its pretty flat but a machined part installed in the right location would still work much better. If you have your fairing off sometime in the near future, post a pic of what you built. Thanks