Front Brake Pulse- Killing me- HELP PLEASE

[Josh1]

So I put a 23" wheel on my 2011 fhlx used Pickard trees, put in the lowering springs and stops that were provided in forks, with new heavy weight fork oil. Put on brand new pads have correct pressure and balanced new wheel.
The annoying issue is when I pull in the front brake I get a pulse its like a in & out motion on the front brake lever.
Now I know the first thing folks will say is its your rotors there warped! Well its not the vendor who I got the wheel from gave me two brand new floating rotors. Its still there, so I packaged up the wheel and sent it back to the vendor, he went thru the whole wheel, hubs are perfect, bearings are perfect, wheel is perfect, this vendor has went above and beyond for me.

I am just stumped I can't wrap my head around what is causing this, its not enough to be fatal, its just super annoying!
So what should I do guys, has anyone ever had this, heard of this. I have been fighting with this for months and I'm about ready to go crazy…

Also to help you guys out New wheel & Rotors have about 300 miles on the set-up, new pads were purchased from harley.

Thanks & Merry Christmas

 

[IndyGlide]

Abs or non abs? If everything else is good, possibly still some air in the lines that needs bled out?


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[Badgerbob]

Josh if you didn't touch your brake lines. Then I would replace the brake pads with a lyndall gold or something of this nature. I would say it's your pads pulsing.

 

[pickardbaggerparts]

are the rotors polished? If so, they will need to be "dragged" in... the pads will need to eat into the polished rotor for it to bite and have a consistent surface

 

[Josh1]

The bike does have ABS but I did not touch the lines only removed calipers to install wheel and new pads, the rotors are not polished the are two piece, black anodized and raw-ish!
I was thinking about putting on some new pads.
Cause when I originally got my wheel it came with one piece rotors and did the same thing, original thoughts were they were warped.
Then vendor hooked me up with 2-piece rotors at no charge and it did the same thing.

 

[trainedkilla]

Are the ABS sensors mounted at the correct angle? On the correct side with the ABS bearing? Is your ABS light on?

If you still have the stock 16" rear wheel, your ABS may not work with the 23" front wheel. I know the newer bikes have to be within a 10% tolerance.

 

[Ferro]

Personally I'd rip the ABS out. They're more of a hassle then they're worth. I never did see the need for ABS on a motorcycle anyway. Didn't have them back in the day and don't need It now.

 

[Zach]

Have you thoroughly cleaned the calipers? Lyndall Racing has a good how to on their site. If you can get a magnetic dial indicator, it's worth checking runout on everything yourself. Not doubting your vendor, just taking a methodical approach to diagnosing.

Zach


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[Josh1]

Thats my next step is to take the calipers back off, clean the rotors, clean the caliper pucks and try again.
Going to put back on a stock wheel, if there is no pulse, it would have to be a problem in the wheel somewhere?

 

[trainedkilla]

It is the ABS system itself, I would bet. You need to throw an 18" wheel on the back, if the system is the same as the 14/15 models.

 

[Marc]

If you put a new rotor on without cleaning it then the issue is the pads.

 

[Zach]

No linked braking system in 2011. That's not causing his problem.

Zach

It is the ABS system itself, I would bet. You need to throw an 18" wheel on the back, if the system is the same as the 14/15 models.

 

[Wanna Ride]

Simple way to rule out the wheel, hub, bearings, spacers and rotors all at one time.

Someone mentioned it earlier... mag base and dial indicator. Jack the bike up, and get the front wheel off the ground. Set your indicator on the rotor surface, and slowly spin the wheel. I can't recall exactly, but common sense says you shouldn't see more than a few thousandths runout. If you have more than that, then the issue is in the rotor or wheel assembly. If it's good, then you definitely got a caliper or pad problem.

But if I was to guess... you got a caliper or pad problem.

 

[trainedkilla]

No linked braking system in 2011. That's not causing his problem.

Zach

Awesome. ..well, that's good news in itself.

 

[Josh1]

Should I stick with the oem harley pads or try a different pad? Right now I have brand new Harley pads!

 

[Josh1]

What do you mean by cleaning the new rotors? What is the process for that?

If you put a new rotor on without cleaning it then the issue is the pads.

 

[Marc]

What do you mean by cleaning the new rotors? What is the process for that?

More than a 99.9% chance that the manufacturer oiled them to prevent rust. Always clean them with brake clean before installing. Change pads clean the rotor and see what happens.

 

[Josh1]

Right on thanks for the help guys! Would love to ride my new bike with new wheels front and back. Without feeling like I'm on my old Panhead! LOL

Merry Christmas Chopped Family!!!!!!!!!!

More than a 99.9% chance that the manufacturer oiled them to prevent rust. Always clean them with brake clean before installing. Change pads clean the rotor and see what happens.

 

[Josh1]

O.k I found the problem, it is the pucks in the calipers.
Took them off the forks and they are not coming out at the same speed, 2 pucks don't even come out.
Which explains the slight pulse, getting 2 pucks on one side and 3 pucks on the other side.
Off to Harley to get re-build kit tomorrow!
Hope I don't need need calipers

 

[Badgerbob]

Glad to hear you found the problem.