Custom Softail Bagger

HarleyCruiser

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139
Sorry I need to get caught up with my posting; I am much farther along than shown here, been busy with life.
The bottom mount will have a track and slide and a way to lock it when I get into the position that I want. It has less machining but more is complicated.
Like I said before the actuator has an automatic limit switch built in but if it does not reach it then you can burn it up so that is why it needs to be able to be adjustable.
So,,,,,, to the scrap pile.





Rough it out.
The black line is where the slot will be for the track.



I used a hack saw to cut the slot, it is very accurate.



I drilled it and tapped it for ¼ 20 to lock it.



Then cut another slot for the actuator to sit in.
Drill the hole for the pin, not real sure what kind of pin I am going to use, I don’t want a threaded bolt, it will work like a file to gouge out the eye hole in the end of the actuator.



And there is your bottom mount. I am only going to use about half the angle SS, it will be bolted to the bottom of the pack. This way to adjust the travel I will mount the top part, (three different positions to choose from) then close the lid and close the actuator and then just tighten up the bottom clamp. There will be a small hole just large enough to get my hand in to adjust the bottom mount and to unhook it if anything goes wrong.
I need to do more work to the bottom of the pack, it needs more sanding and another layer of glass, it will also have aluminum flat bar under where it bolts to the mount.
 

HarleyCruiser

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Messages
139
Moving on to the bottom.



I want some aluminum flat bar (1/8”) where the mount goes to help distribute the weight so that the fiberglass does not crack at the bolt holes, fiberglass does not like things bolted to it, even with fender washers.



I bolted those down then used a thin layer of glass to hold them in place, pull out the bolts and then.



Glass over everything putting the reinforcing flat bar inside the glass.

Here is how the top mount for the actuator is epoxied on.



Yea everything needs cleaned up, including my shop:)



And an idea where the bottom mount goes.



Drill some holes for a ANOTHER access hole.



The paint stick is just for a temp shim.
And there is your bottom actuator mount.




https://youtu.be/1YJVKDxrbdo




I have moved the actuator down to the bottom slot on the top mount, this makes the lid open farther and it needs that, it would still take the same amount of time for total travel but would seem faster. It takes ten seconds to open, in all honesty that is not that long.
They make this actuator (actuonix from the robot shop, cost about seventy bucks) in three different gear ratios, and different lengths, fast that lift about five pounds; 60-1 takes about five seconds; medium speed lifts about fifteen (this is what I have) and is slower about ten seconds and then the 100-1 very slow that opens about 45 pounds. I could use a more powerful faster actuator but they are too big and too heavy to be practical.
The wireless controller (e-bay cost about nineteen) has several different settings on it, this is push and hold and that is kind of a pain, there is a push let go setting, the controller sends power to the actuator until it reaches it limit switch. This is the setting that I will use once I get everything adjusted the way I want it, that way I click the button once while I am taking off my helmet and it opens. However until I get everything finalized I don’t want to burn up my actuator.
I will also have a hidden switch under the pack so that I don’t have to carry the key fob.
Let’s talk about the practical side of this, first it takes the place of a lock, then it takes the place of a rod/cable to limit the opening of the lid.
Is it practical, probably not:)
 
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HarleyCruiser

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Messages
139
What is the large diameter hole in the bottom for?
That is a access hole to adjust the bottom mount on the actuator, it needs to slide on the rail for when the lid is closed then you lock the bolt. That way the actuator is fully retracted when the lid is closed. Also in case of a problem I can reach in just pull the pin and unhook it. It will have a cover.
 

Wanna Ride

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,141
Nice work. I just watched the video; I like the fluid motion of the actuator. Do you have an ebay link to the actuator and any of the other wireless components that you could share?
 

HarleyCruiser

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Messages
139
Nice work. I just watched the video; I like the fluid motion of the actuator. Do you have an ebay link to the actuator and any of the other wireless components that you could share?
Sure,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-DC-9-30V-Positive-Inversion-Remote-Control-for-DC-Motor-Linear-Actuator/281518440539?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

These are really cool, they also make them to control more than one item. You could also use it to control a solenoid for other applications like a on off switch for the ignition if you wanted to.
This one has three settings, I was using the press to move, let go and it stops, another function, you just press it once and it goes until the actuator hits the built in limit switch this is the function that I will use once I get it set up.
I got the actuator from the robot shop,

https://www.robotshop.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=actuators&order=relevance&dir=desc

This is a neat site, has some real cool stuff that is too technical for me to understand. The actuators come is different lengths and different gear ratios, Mine is 140 mm, and 63 to one, but need to go look at my notes. The gearing affects how fast it opens and how much weight. I probably could have gone with the faster, or with a shorter one and had it closer to the back, but am happy with how it works.
In all honesty I have been running the pack without it, I have not gotten to the wiring of the lights or the actuator and the lid works just fine without anything. I can grab it with my finger nails and just lift it up, and no problem with it coming open while ridding. So not real sure how practical the actuator is, would be cool on a show bike.
Once it get everything done I need a guard to keep anything out from under the actuator and that will take up space that I am not sure I want to give up.
It one of the things that I wanted to play with sooooooooo.
 
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HarleyCruiser

Site Supporter
Messages
139
I epoxied in the tubes for my LEDs



Grind them flat.



A little body filler and ready for paint.




I shot some primer on it and it is amazing what it shows up.
Look at the hole second to the end on the right.



When is the best time to fix something.



Move it where it should be.



And epoxy a new one in.
 

Wanna Ride

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,141
Awesome. Thank you!
Any idea what the range capability is on the wireless controller? I want to use something like this in a totally different application, to physically turn a 110vac light switch on and off. well, actually it will turn a three way-switch from red to green and back when activated. I already use the three-way switch for this, but I want to move it to a remote location and eliminate the need for the operator standing near the light. Of course, I could just run the switch to a remote location, but I want to have one person multi-task and do this wirelessly.

Sure,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-DC-9-30V-Positive-Inversion-Remote-Control-for-DC-Motor-Linear-Actuator/281518440539?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

These are really cool, they also make them to control more than one item. You could also use it to control a solenoid for other applications like a on off switch for the ignition if you wanted to.
This one has three settings, I was using the press to move, let go and it stops, another function, you just press it once and it goes until the actuator hits the built in limit switch this is the function that I will use once I get it set up.
I got the actuator from the robot shop,

https://www.robotshop.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=actuators&order=relevance&dir=desc

This is a neat site, has some real cool stuff that is too technical for me to understand. The actuators come is different lengths and different gear ratios, Mine is 140 mm, and 63 to one, but need to go look at my notes. The gearing affects how fast it opens and how much weight. I probably could have gone with the faster, or with a shorter one and had it closer to the back, but am happy with how it works.
In all honesty I have been running the pack without it, I have not gotten to the wiring of the lights or the actuator and the lid works just fine without anything. I can grab it with my finger nails and just lift it up, and no problem with it coming open while ridding. So not real sure how practical the actuator is, would be cool on a show bike.
Once it get everything done I need a guard to keep anything out from under the actuator and that will take up space that I am not sure I want to give up.
It one of the things that I wanted to play with sooooooooo.
 
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DanHappy

Well-Known Member
Messages
509
Keep in mind the current draw on the contact. By the looks of it, it does not look like anything high. I didn't search it ornanything, just wanted to bring it to.your attention.

If you need to switch higher power, you could put a relay omin line with a higher amperage contact.

Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk
 

HarleyCruiser

Site Supporter
Messages
139
I did not try maximum range but it worked fine at twenty feet, when I get a chance I will give it a try.
 

HarleyCruiser

Site Supporter
Messages
139
Keep in mind the current draw on the contact. By the looks of it, it does not look like anything high. I didn't search it ornanything, just wanted to bring it to.your attention.

If you need to switch higher power, you could put a relay omin line with a higher amperage contact.

Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk
The current draw of the actuator is pretty low, and the controller has a fuse build in so that it doesn't overload. I have a four pack relay that I might use on it in the future.
https://www.robotshop.com/en/4-channel-12v-relay-module.html
 
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Wanna Ride

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Messages
3,141
I did not try maximum range but it worked fine at twenty feet, when I get a chance I will give it a try.
I'm going to be looking into it some more, but I'd like something at about 150-200 feet. But the info you provided will get me going in the right direction, I appreciate it!
 

HarleyCruiser

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Messages
139

HarleyCruiser

Site Supporter
Messages
139
Sorry for the delay, life kind of gets in the way, here is a update.
Base coat is on.



And clear coat is on, kind of.
So,,,,,,,,,, when you see me start the sentence with this you know there is a story. I started shooting my clear and it was a little cool and spiting just a tad, so I grabbed my thinner and added just a little, shot the first coat and it was perfect. I let it flash got ready for the second coat, cleared my gun, it was fine and then ran the gun down the side of the pack.
I’ve never seen a gun SPIT paint as much so fast in my life. Luckily I stopped checked the paint and it had jelled in the pot. Read the instructions on my thinner that I have used several time, and it was for acrylic enamel, well I am shooting urethane. I was able to clean the gun and get another two coats on, everything dried just fine but of course the clear on that side looks like……………..



So this is a sacrificial coat.
I always laugh when someone tells me they want to learn how to paint, I ask them if they hit there thumb with a hammer do you put the pain out of your mind and just keep hammering or do you throw the hammer across the room. If you have ever thrown a hammer in pain do not even attempt painting. It can be painful.
So you move on, get out the wet sand paper 320 and sand it flat. In all honesty I normally shoot the clear then color sand it to see how it looks and then go back and give it a second coat a week later, so this is not that unusual, I did want to be able to wet sand it with 1000, 1500 then buff it out and run it for a while, however it does not look that bad, will just run it for a while sanded, and re-shoot it later or just go ahead and do the carbon fiber.





You can see where I have burnt through with the coarse paper in several places, the black sure shows up where your body work needs work.
But at least it is in paint and it is getting real straight.
I am going to start wiring up the connector on my bike for the electronics, need to do something besides body/paint work for a while.
 
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Wanna Ride

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,141
Wow. That sucks. But at least things are moving in the right direction. The tourpak looks good.
 

Marc

""The Chopped Baggers Guy""
Messages
12,446
Man that’s blisters an ass! It’ll look even better tho. All the extra work..

It’s really looking good! Great job, all the way!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

HarleyCruiser

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Messages
139
Thanks Wanna, Mark, yea painting and custom work can be a bitch I don’t know how you pros do it every day, the pleasure of getting stuff done and nice would drive me crazy.

I was able to get another base coat on and several coats of clear, its not color sanded and will still need another coat.





And I ask Mrs. Cruiser if she thought it should be covered in Carbon Fiber, and she just paused, then she paused, then just smiled said “I like the black.” I ask several friends and got the same answer, and in all honesty the black does look good. I think most people don’t even understand the CF, so might end up with black saddlebags again with a black tour pack.
I am going to play around with a couple of colors and see what I like.

I also did not like the very front under where the passenger pad goes, if you remember I did not cut out the whole front but left the bottom where it is flat.



Even though it is going to be covered, it just does not make since, also I have been running the pack to test it and I have been putting my helmet in it and if the helmet is not in just the right spot the lid will not shut. Moving the back rest forward an inch and a half will let the helmet fit under the top more and let the lit shut. It will also give me a lot more room, as the sides will be rounded more.
So….when is the best time to fix something……









FYI this change cost me another ten for the sign and forty for another gallon of glass resin. Custom is not cheap.



You can see how much the front has been moved up.





And I am working on the bottom also; it does not need a ton of work. The bottom turned out flatter than I had planned, I think while I was doing so much filling the pack was sitting on the bottom and when I glassed it that it made it flat. This is also why my helmet did not fit the way that I thought.
Moving the front will cure this, it is a lot of extra work, but remember now is the time to change things that you do not like the longer you wait the harder it is.
 

HarleyCruiser

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Messages
139
And finishing up the new front, under the back rest.



A little Bondo.



I am using a different filler, this is a polyester glazing, it is two part and is much smoother than normal body filler and easer to sand. It is for a final fill, not intended for anything to thick.
We used to use a thick lacquer glazing to do the same thing but it had a tendency to shrink and crack with time.


You work it just like Bondo, sanding off almost all of it leaving just the parts filling the low spots.



I also did the bottom. I did not get a photo of the paint afterwards, but you get the idea.



I also shot the inside with some black rattle can Rustolium. (The photo show a light spot but it’s all black.) I’m not too concerned with the finish, it is going to be covered with some felt but want it cleaned up some. I still need a lid for the hole.
In all honesty you cannot tell any difference in the look of the pack with this change except the helmets fit better inside, but I am glad that I made the change, to me it made since.
I gave the outside a quick color sanding and a quick buff to get rid of the runs and to clean it up a little. The photos don’t do it justice so not going to post them will try to get better photos later. And this is not the last coat of paint so……
I have decided to change colors I am going to a black base with silver metallic, so it looks like dark charcoal. This is going to be a little more of a challenge, I am just a hobbyist painter and metallic can be trying.




I stuck on the name plate, I really like it, adds a lot of class and interest to the pack. It is just stuck on with some double face tape so can be removed for the final paint.
I am going to run the pack for a while, I need to do some work on my front fender ready for paint, then the bags.
 

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