adjustable trees on Road King Police

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lumper

Well-Known Member
Messages
207
Hi all
Total noob here.

I am a member over at HD forums and a member there turned me onto you guys when he saw the questions I was asking.

He told me I would have better luck over here.

I want to rake my 07 FLHPI and not ruin the ride.

I keep hearing different things.
Somene said because I have reversed trees it wont work, (I dont know what that means)

Some say not to do it, some say you have to rake the neck and the trees or you will have whobblign at high speed and poor handling., some say they had good luck, etc.

I would really like to hear from those who have done it.

I want to rake out the front slightly nothing too extreme and add a 26" wheel to the front.

My front was lowered 2" and my rear 1".

What I want to know is can I do an adjustable set up to accomplish this and dial it in without other mods.

I heard there are trike tree kits that will work but I am not sure and a little confused.

I would like to add a bit of length to the bike, have the front up a little so I sit a little more "in" the bike.
I have a 43" inseam so tall legs.
Also I am doing other mods to make the bike more comfy for me and I think thsi will look great but also help with my comfort.

Anyway what do you think?

If anyone has any good info, on who sells a good kit that has been used and people here are having good results that wont require me to do anything to the neck I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

Lump
 

TXSNIPER

Well-Known Member
Messages
343
Location
Northeast Texas
Only REAL option for a 26" is to cut the frame and rake it and use raked trees. IMHO

If you wanna do a 23" then you don't have to cut the neck, get with Pickard USA and get a set of their true bolt on trees.
 
Last edited:

Marc

""The Chopped Baggers Guy""
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Cut stretch rake is the best, but you'll have to sacrifice some comfort for the "COOL" factor. Cause a 26 is bad ass!

I advise you to read thru some of the bike build threads, lots n lots of opinions.

I have hhi neck n trees.

A 43" inseam? You really need a 26x10 rear and a 48x4 front.. Lol..
 

Bill

I used to own some shit!
Messages
7,115
Location
Omaha NE
I recommend a 9* neck, 9* trees, and a drop seat kit.

Where are you located?

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lumper

Well-Known Member
Messages
207
Thanks guys.
If you wanna do a 23" then you don't have to cut the neck, get with Pickard USA and get a set of their true bolt on trees.

I really appreciate that info, I think I will look into that.
Will I need to do anything to the neck as well with the Pickard trees?
I hear people talking about trike trees.

I am thinking I really dont want to do a cut and weld, I would rather do a bolt on kit if I can keep a good ride and not sacrifice anything.

mainly because I can do it myself and I will already be down for a long time with this conversion and sending the bike out to be cut and welded is only going to add major down time to the project as well as cost.

I dont mind going with a 23" rather than a "26.

I messed up and wrote 43" inseam, lol I meant 34" sorry about that.

I know exactly what I want to do to almost every part of the bike, I am only stuck on how to rake the bike.
I keep hearing things I dont understand so I do some reading and then I get even more confused and have even more questions, lol.

Bill
You said the neck and trees.
Can you explain a little more what exactly do I need for the neck to work with the trees.
Is this a bolt on application I can do without cutting my frame?
IS there a definitive read on this that clearly exlains all these things you can recommend?

I am in CT.

I have a list of items I am going to do, stretch the boards 4" forward, conicle air breather, Black Reinhardt's, rear end kit, bags and fenders, stretched tank, side panels, blacked out front end, spoke wheels, low profile 2 up seat,

I am doing BR Custom Bus bars and Hawg Hawlters hidden controls for a totally clean bar set up with all my functions built in, and tons more plus little things.
I want to end up with a gloss black on denim black with the chrome of the engine and a very little red, to pick up the breather, a few 103's on a few covers that are flat black with red letters, custom cut outs for my rear brake and turn signals that only show when they are illuminated and have my custom graphix for a design, etc..

IT isnt going to be cheap, I have around 10k$ so far I think going in before paint.

So the main thing I am worrying about is raking the bike to the right angle properly so I dont give up any handling, I dont end up with a wobble and I stretch the bike a little and adding a 23" to raise the front a little.
Bike was lowered 2" in front and 1" in rear already.
I have an 07 so I dont think I can do a drop seat, but I can do a seat that sits me lower and back, so all in all I end up more in the bike than on the bike, if that makes any sense.

Lump
 
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Gary H.

One of THE 150!
Messages
1,093
Location
St. Louis, MO.
Yea, if your wanting 26 without trees, Big Joe is about your only option. Your not going to save much money I don't think, but at least your not going to have to cut/weld.
 

Bill

I used to own some shit!
Messages
7,115
Location
Omaha NE
You are correct, drop seat is for 09+

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lumper

Well-Known Member
Messages
207
so without being able to do a drop seat, what are my other options to get a comfy 2 up for touring that will look good with a stretch tank and still sit me back and down as fr as I ca get?

Lump
 

Gary H.

One of THE 150!
Messages
1,093
Location
St. Louis, MO.
Some of the aftermarket seats are designed to set you down and back. You won't get the 5" down, but you can get 2 or 3 down and a couple back. The seats I've had that set me down and back the furthest were Corbin and the Danny Gray 2upXL. On the older frame, the Corbins sat me back the most.
 

Bill

I used to own some shit!
Messages
7,115
Location
Omaha NE
so without being able to do a drop seat, what are my other options to get a comfy 2 up for touring that will look good with a stretch tank and still sit me back and down as fr as I ca get?

Lump

Any of the seats that go with stretched tanks are going to put you down and back pretty far. Sinister, Yaffe, Camtech, etc...

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lumper

Well-Known Member
Messages
207
Thanks Blue, Gary and Bill.
I just cant see to write a short post, sorry guys, I am way to excited and learning so much, each answer presents three new questions.

as for the seat so I will look at Corbin.

I will look at seats that will work with the X-tended bags, rear end, side panel mods I am going to do, and see how low I can get back a little but still retain comfort for long rides.

I am 6'3" with a 34" inseam so I am moving the boards forward about 3 or 4" and bringing the custom bars back to me so I dont have to lean forward and hopefully can get an removable back rest.

My welder is going to extend my custom heel toe shifter I will make and same for the rear brake pedal so they fit the new boards position properly with my size 13's, so I can use the full boards, extended and not have to pull back to use the foot controls on either side.

I am hoping a 26" wheel and 9*x 9* rake will change the angle of the bike slightly to help me sit down in it a little more, every little bit helps.

So if I can find a comfortable seat that also looks cool without having to go full on custom that would be great.

Blue, I am not comfortable cutting and welding but even less comfortable sending my frame out, I will bring it to a shop locally that I can hang around all day and wait for it and then put it back in my truck and take it home though, and that's what I am looking for.

I don't want to pull the engine, although I might decide to do that if it will help me with other things at the same time.

The only motor work I am planning are cam tensioners and new cams, so if that is easier to do with a pulled engine I might pull the motor for that, then I can send the motor to a mechanic to do that and bring the frame to a welder to rake it, and then get it all back and put it back together my self.

I would rather keep it on the bike though and just bring it to the mechanic after the welder with the engine still on the bike.
I have never cracked a Harley motor so I am thinking I want to have it done professionally and not take any chances with it this time around.
I love working on my bike but until I am more proficient with certain things I know my limitations.

Believe it or not, I was first thinking I will do a lighter conversion on this 07 since I got it so cheap, and then flip it and use the cash to pick up an 09 or newer and then do my bike with my new found education and cash.

Then I talked to some friends I trust and know and they are telling me the new chassis has as many issues as it has improvements and they say it would be crazy for me to go through all that simply for the newer chassis if I am happy with everything else I have.

The Drop seat is the only thing I can not do on it so I dunno.

I will have to see the finished product, if it suites me and I am happy I will keep it, if it leaves me thinking I still need a couple inches then I will see what I can get for it, strip some parts and replace them and then do the same conversion on a newer bike and add the drop seat conversion.

What can I do for a good low profile rear tire after adding a 26" front?


I would assume a really fat low profile, but what are you guys finding that works best regarding handling and wobble free riding first and foremost but still a good angle to achieve that raked stretched look?

I haven't even ordered the first part and I can see the finished product and $$ signs flying like a bleeding damn and I just want to get going on it already.

This education I am getting though is worth the price of all the mods together, without you guys and your opinions and teachings I could never do this.

By doing most of the work myself except the cut and weld and paint/powder coat and the hidden controls in the bars I am getting I am still saving a ton of money in labor that allows me to get the things I want on the bike so after when it is done and I am touring I can sincerely appreciate every nut and bolt.

Lump
 
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Gary H.

One of THE 150!
Messages
1,093
Location
St. Louis, MO.
Yea, I never recommend pushing the comfort envelope too much. Everybodies different. Welding, should be done by someone competetant with a TIG or at least a gas cooled MIG setup. YOu don't want it cracking going 70 in between a bunch of cages!

Low profile back wheel? I don't think I'd change that on your bike. I like the stock rear wheels, even on my 2012. You can't go much fatter than you already are unless you get into a wide tire kit for the earlier bikes.

As far as body mods and seats, the only issue you'll have is if you go with a tank overlay or a full on stretched tank. They will require specially made seats. If you are jsut doing the bags, fender, and side covers, they'll pretty much all work. Find the one you like and ask to sit on it. Shouldn't be hard on older bikes at bike nights or rallies.

I'm 6'2" and the Corbin and 16" apes fit me pretty much perfectly. Seat moved me back and the bars stretched me out. I lowered the front and rear end 2" with a 21" front wheel and I liked the stance on my old bike. I just didn't like the tucked in stance without raking it.
 

lumper

Well-Known Member
Messages
207
Thanks Gary,
So the stock size in the rear? do they recommend a change when going to a 26" in front or just leave the rear stock ?
I just haven't read enough yet.

I do plan on buying a stretched tank.
I haven't decided if I am going to stretch my tank or just buy one already done needing paint.

I have a bunch of questions about that too, lol but I don't want to spin this thread into a whole new reality, I will read some more and then post a new thread.

I have the older tank with the ign on it and the dual caps, left side is the gauge right side is the filler.

I want to put the flush mount covers on and the led kit for the gauge like the cvo's and some newer bikes, anyway whether I buy one or convert mine, I am going to do a stretched tank, so going back to the seat, does that limit me to only a custom?

Or are they stretching the tanks to leave a space that is common enough with certain seats so I can still order "off the rack" and get a fitting seat from danny gray or Corbin?

Lump

ps thanks again, I get psyched when I see a response to these ridiculously long posts of mine, that doesn't say, go away, or ask shorter questions or whats with the novel, etc.. you guys are the best!!
 

Gary H.

One of THE 150!
Messages
1,093
Location
St. Louis, MO.
Well, if your doing a stretched tank, I'd wait on the seat cause you'll have to modify it if you purchase one before you do the tank. Most of the stocker seats can be modified by a good seat guy to work with the stretched tanks. I can't help you on the tank overlays for the FLHT's, don't know anything about them. I didn't do it to mine. As was stated before, pretty much all the seats that are made of the stretched tanks, set you back quite a bit because they don't have all the extra useless padding on them. Top of the line seats are all priced pretty competetively, so their not out there in price.

Maybe the other guys will have an opinion on the different tires for the rear end. I put an 18" on mine and the difference in the gearing with the different size wheel is something I just don't like.


I was hoping I had a pic with the Corbin on it, but I can't find one.
 

Bill

I used to own some shit!
Messages
7,115
Location
Omaha NE
If you get a stretched tank, you will need the matching seat or have one made.

As for the rear wheel, there isn't a "recommended" size as the frame should be pretty close to level when your all done. Most of us have Air Ride so the air gets dumped when parked, but we still maintain a reasonable frame-ground clearance when riding.
 

lumper

Well-Known Member
Messages
207
Bill,
Thanks man,
So you guys have an air ride suspension that you drop when parked, thats how the bikes sit so low?
I have been looking at these bikes thinking, wtf, how can you ride it like that lol.
Ok, so thats another thing I need to read up on and learn about I will add it to the list.

Thanks

Lump

ps Gary, beautiful ride man, very nice.

I just talked to a painter today, I am going to meet him, he does all the work for the dealers around here and stuff and is supposed to be very good.
I came up with a great concept for paint that I haven't seen done, if you can believe that so I am pretty excited about meeting with him, I am sure it wont be cheap, but it will be one of a kind.
 
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jetlag

Nomad
Messages
1,307
Location
Centralia, Wa
If you have the mechanical skills to r&r the motor, you have more than enough skill to do a simple cam swap. The 07 and newer motors already have the hydraulic cam tensioners, so all you'd need to do is swap the shoes, no problem. The cams arent pressed into the cam plate, either, so you dont need anything other than hand tools. Only specialty tool needed is a blind bearing puller for the inner bearings.

Cam swap on the newer motors is a very basic job, easily within the reach of the average weekend mechanic. Pulling the entire motor is a much bigger job.

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