23" vs 26" Help me decide

QuikHD

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Ok, I am on the fence about weather to go with a 23" or 26"

My bike is more about go that show. I will be taking it to the drag strip often, it will see over 120mph....OFTEN....at the strip

Taking things into consideration. 26 & 23 VeeRubber tires are H rated so up to 130mph. I doubt I will be going over that at the strip, but close. Even If I do top it for a sec or two, pretty sure it will be ok.

I have been thinking about nothing but doing a cut and weld HHI rake kit, but recently I have been looking at the trees Native sells.......Mostly because I am on the fence about 23 vs 26 and this way I can go 23 without having to go back and cut off a $500 23" rake kit to install the one for the 26". Welding is not an issue, I am a plumber/pipe fitter and own welders that can weld any process.

Remember, the ONLY reason I am thinking about going with the 23" Tree kit is because it would be a real pain in the ass to go to a 26" neck/trees later on if I weld on the 23" neck now.




The reason I am thinking about any of this is because I like the raked look, and want something larger than a 21" that everyone has now. At this point, I almost think the 26" looks too big.


I really like the stance of this bike by Camtech, the wheel looks like it fits perfect IMO. I am pretty sure its a 23" with a cut neck and raked trees. I have tried to PM camtech here and on face book I have commented about this bike with no response as to how it was done.

Can anyone tell me how much total rake this bike has?

http://www.camtechcustom.com/slide.php?id=79
 

QuikHD

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If this is a vote, I vote 26" :30:
Normally I am a go big or go home kind of guy (look at my motor thread) but this one may not be the right choice for me.....At least right now. The price difference between 23 vs 26 is about $500-700 by my figures so that isnt a make or break factor. Going with trees only vs cut and weld isnt really a factor either since the trees only setup is almost the same price in the end.
 

Bill

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Normally I am a go big or go home kind of guy (look at my motor thread) but this one may not be the right choice for me.....At least right now. The price difference between 23 vs 26 is about $500-700 by my figures so that isnt a make or break factor. Going with trees only vs cut and weld isnt really a factor either since the trees only setup is almost the same price in the end.
That is the exact some conclusion I came to when deciding what I wanted. The cost is almost the same in the end, but the 26" wheel gives you a lot more of a "custom" look IMO.

I know you may be worried about the tire options, I have faith that sooner or later a real tire manufacturer will step-up and make a decent tire. Even if I have to replace the $200 tire every 6 months, to me it's worth it to have the only 26" bike anywhere around here.
 

InMotionJosh

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I also say go with 26. You will regret it down the road if you dont. I say start big and if you hate it then go back to the 23. I think you will be happy with the 26 and in a straight line the 26 wont feel any different than a 23. Its not like your road racing, your drag racing. Make sure you upgrade brakes though, they do get harder to stop when you put the big wheel on the front.
 

QuikHD

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Well, mine wont be the only one around. There are a few of them around here. Mostly coming from www.DDCustomcycle.com I am going to a show they will be at this weekend. Maybe I will get a chance to sit on a couple and see what I like.

My bike doesnt have to be flashy like some I have seen with radical paint. I like nice simple and clean......And FAST
 

QuikHD

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I also say go with 26. You will regret it down the road if you dont. I say start big and if you hate it then go back to the 23. I think you will be happy with the 26 and in a straight line the 26 wont feel any different than a 23. Its not like your road racing, your drag racing. Make sure you upgrade brakes though, they do get harder to stop when you put the big wheel on the front.
Single 13" rotor and 6 piston caliper would be minimum, but will most likely stick with dual disc factory size rotors. The dragstrip has plenty of room to shut down....The street doesnt!
 

InMotionJosh

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Single 13" rotor and 6 piston caliper would be minimum, but will most likely stick with dual disc factory size rotors. The dragstrip has plenty of room to shut down....The street doesnt!
When your ready to do it check out the brake setup that glenndyne designs has. They have 13 and 16" rotors that use a massive 6 piston wilwood caliper. I went with their 13" kit. Its pretty killer.
 

QuikHD

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One other thing I take into slight consideration is resale. We dont really know whats going to happen to these neck raked bikes in resale in 5-10 years. With trees only, it isnt a factor since the factory neck is untouched.


One thing that concerns me is that I saw a couple "builders" (if you could call them that) out in Cali that had 23 and 26" wheels on baggers and they looked really stupid. The frame was like 12" off the ground in the front!!! I think they just added trike trees and maybe longer tubes to get the clearance for the tire.

If I went with the tree only route for a 23", would the bike sit higher in the front? Would it look quite a bit different next to a bike with a cut and raked neck?
 

InMotionJosh

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One other thing I take into slight consideration is resale. We dont really know whats going to happen to these neck raked bikes in resale in 5-10 years. With trees only, it isnt a factor since the factory neck is untouched.


One thing that concerns me is that I saw a couple "builders" (if you could call them that) out in Cali that had 23 and 26" wheels on baggers and they looked really stupid. The frame was like 12" off the ground in the front!!! I think they just added trike trees and maybe longer tubes to get the clearance for the tire.

If I went with the tree only route for a 23", would the bike sit higher in the front? Would it look quite a bit different next to a bike with a cut and raked neck?
I cant say how much different the bike will sit with just trees vs cut and rake. I think the trees will look ok but I still feel the best way to go is cut and rake. You definatly need to do one or the other to make a 23 or 26 work. I dont want to hijack your thread but maybe a couple pictures of my bike under construction will help you see the stance.

I have a 2012 Road Glide
HHI Neck and Trees
+2 Tubes
1" Progressive lowering springs in front tubes
26"


 

vrog

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QuickHD,

That bike you like is a 23", cut and raked. It was done before the 26" were available. The guys at Camtech are working around the clock to get a bunch of bikes completed for the Vtwin Expo this weekend and easyrider show next weekend.

I think a 23" looks good and thats bike you like is prob one of my favorite bikes. I have a poster of it in my office and look at it every day. it was my inspiration to build a custom bagger. I would go with a 26" only because its whats new. Don't get me wrong, I like the 30" wheels too but they are too big for me. I was going to do the 30" from the begining but ended up with the 26", to me it just flowed better with the lines of the bike.
 

Classic$98

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I think if you do the 23" and native trees you know you can re-sell all this stuff. Try it out for a year, it might be right for you because of drag racing. I'm sure you will know after you run it at the track for the first time. Are you concerned about weight at all? Idk what the weight difference is whether it is a good amount or not but would be something to take into consideration.
 

yardsale

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Based on what I was finding on the web in November, it appeared to me that to do a 26", you absolutely had to rake the frame (some will argue this is not true but it seems to be the popular opinion). On the other hand, a lot of people were confirming that you could do a 23" with trees only. Its mostly a cost decision because both approaches look good.

What pushed me over the edge is that the frame rake goes out-and-up 2" which levels the bike better if you want it to go low (at least IMHO). It's subtle, but its definitely noticeable and I think its what makes these bikes look so cool.
 

QuikHD

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What pushed me over the edge is that the frame rake goes out-and-up 2" which levels the bike better if you want it to go low (at least IMHO). It's subtle, but its definitely noticeable and I think its what makes these bikes look so cool.


That is the part that is gonna make me cut and weld. I think I have decided to cut and weld. I kind of like the idea of having the fairing up a little higher since I am 6'2" it might be a little nicer to have it up there.

Now I just got to figure out which size wheel I want. 23" or 26"...........................................................
 

vrog

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How can I explain it........................

Kind of like buying your wife a set of titties, you can go with a C's but every time you see a sexy hottie with some D's your gonna kick yourself:1:
 

QuikHD

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I think the whole idea of running a VeeRubber tire is straying me away from a 26". If they cant hold air, how well are they really made?

The Avon is actually V rated as well as apposed to the VeeRubber having a H rating.
 
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